The NYU-adjacent diner is set to close on June 21.
Photo: Alamy
Nobody would call Astor Place the center of New York City, but for the people who start their lives here as students at NYU, it could feel like that for at least a little while. Cozy Soup ānā Burger fit in perfectly, waiting for you right as you hit the Broadway end of the block. It was exactly what countless homesick teenagers needed to see as they adjusted to life in Manhattan. It is a real diner ā the likes of which keep getting closer to extinction ā but for people who lived, worked, and studied within its vicinity over the last 54 years, it always felt like something a little more. Like any diner that sticks around for multiple decades, its greatness can be measured by the community it fostered and the people it has fed more than sales numbers or the quality of food. Unfortunately, those things donāt seem to keep the lights on anymore, and at the end of June, Cozy will close for good.
Itās another loss for the city, another landmark that predates the birth or arrival of most people who live here, soon to be gone forever. It wasnāt a culinary landmark ā though you likely wonāt find such perfect split-pea soup and thick-cut French fries anywhere else in the surrounding Zip Codes ā and it never tried to rise above its humble station. The mood in the world being what it is, losing a place quite literally called cozy feels almost too on the nose.
Befitting of the times, people likely first learned about the closing on social media. New York Nico broke the news, which felt appropriate given that heās often using his account reach to help businesses like Cozy Soup ānā Burger as they try to survive the times. A few years ago, I worked with Nico on a book that was supposed to be a guide, love letter, and document of New York City businesses that he cherished, and as we started brainstorming what he wanted to include, Cozy Soup ānā Burger was one of the first he mentioned alongside neighboring subterranean barbershop Astor Place Hairstylists. Out of the hundred-plus places we jotted down, those two were of the utmost importance because they were places heād been going since he was a kid growing up nearby in Union Square. When we showed up at Cozy to talk with John Strats about the diner his father and uncles had originally opened underneath the 59th Street Bridge when they moved to America from Greece, it was obvious the place was in trouble. He didnāt talk about just his diner having a difficult time, but all diners going through it. We talked for a long time, and as I got ready to leave, a middle-aged guy in a Rangers hat whoād been eavesdropping walked over and said, āIād move if this place closed.ā Heād been living in the neighborhood since the early 1990s and told me there hadnāt been a week that passed that he didnāt stop in for at least a cup of coffee.
I didnāt catch the guyās name and didnāt get a contact, so I canāt check in and see if his apartment is now opening up, but the sentiment is the same with everybody I talk to: It wasnāt just a diner. It was a third place before that phrase or concept even existed. In my own 25 years of going there, I saw that play out with my own eyes when a guy proposed to his girlfriend, mentioning he was asking her to marry him in the same place where theyād first met as students. Spike Lee was a fan, and Adam Sandler had fond enough memories of the Cozy milkshakes and burgers from his days at Tisch that he included it in his 1999 film, Big Daddy. Not long before he died, Wu-Tang member Olā Dirty Bastard stopped inside while I was spending the couple of bucks I had in my pocket on a bowl of chicken soup, a film crew tailing him for some reason. As he passed by me, he grabbed hold of the vintage track jacket I had on and said, āIām taking this.ā (He didnāt.) Early on, when I started dating the woman Iād someday marry, she and I ordered half our meals from Cozy because she lived nearby on 10th Street and already ate there all the time. Maybe the detail I liked best about the place was that whenever you called, somebody would answer, āHello! Cozy.ā
Toward the end, it became sort of a bummer; Stratsās expenses kept rising, so he had to respond by making menu items more expensive. The business tried raising $12,000 with GoFundMe this March, but came up short, and could only leave people wondering how much good that sort of money would do in 2026 Manhattan. There had been murmurs for months that soon the diner would go the way of nearby places that people felt real emotional attachments to ā Gem Spa, Astor Riviera, Other Music, the basement of the Kmart. Hell, even New York Review of Architecture had me feeling a longing for the elevated Starbucks that once sat looking across from the bigger Astor Place Starbucks that finally closed in 2024. Throughout, we held hope that maybe Cozy would have a last-second reprieve like Astor Place Hairstylists had when investors swooped in to save the place mostly because they wanted it to continue operating. Maybe somebody would decide it would be worth having a diner there over having nothing at all and try to retrofit it into one of those neo-diners like Kelloggās in Williamsburg or Montague Diner in Brooklyn Heights. Surely, the parents visiting NYC from out of town to check out the college their kids want to attend would be thrilled to have a diner thatās an update and love letter to the original place that operated there. S&P is always busy, after all.
It looks like that isnāt in the cards, and on June 21, the most reliable place to eat in its neighborhood for the last five decades will close. Itās a nice piece of real estate, so if thereās food served at the same address again, thereās a pretty good chance itāll end up being some sort of corporate slop bowl. The rust-and-tan-colored booths will probably be ripped out; the counter and the couple of swiveling stools that hosted 10,000 test-cramming sessions will almost certainly go as well. The neon 1950s-style āItās Time to Eatā clock will be resold for four figures by a vintage dealer, and you probably wonāt be able to find anywhere else in the neighborhood that has those chalky mints you can only reliably find by the register at diners anymore. Cozy Soup ānā Burger was a diner with bad lighting, so it didnāt make for good Instagram selfies. Tuna melts and burgers arenāt terribly difficult to come by, so you wonāt find many bug-eyed 20-somethings making videos about them. How do you tell the world that this place was important exactly because it wasnāt special? In the end, the rent was too much, just as everything is getting more expensive. An old diner, chaotically decorated with framed Giuliani- and Bloomberg-era ephemera and the static hum of NY 1 turned down nearly all the way on the TV sets hanging from the walls was just too beautiful for these increasingly bland times.