Too often taken for granted, sauce is the stuff that makes a meal complete, and the flavors available across the five boroughs right now are as bright, bold, and varied as ever. I know this because I’ve spent the past weeks scouring every truck, stand, shop, and bar I could find on the theory that the most vibrant sauce doesn’t come from a copper pot in a high-end kitchen; it’s more likely to be served in a cup in Bay Ridge. I was right, of course, as the list below proves. This isn’t intended to be an exhaustive guide to the best sauce in the city; instead these are my current favorites, the vinaigrette, toum, salsa, and mustard that made me immediately take notice of whatever it is they’d been drizzled over.
SOS ChefsÂ
104 Ave. B
Heartier and more nuanced than standard grocery-store stuff. Mix it into yogurt or use as a rub for roasted lamb.
Cesar’s Empanadas
16-32 Hanson Pl., Downtown Brooklyn
Bright with verdant chile spice, but the cups are too small; get a lot of them.
Pio PioÂ
Multiple locations
The creamy sauce is a staple of rotisserie shops; the best version— silky smooth and just a little more herbaceous — comes from this Peruvian chain.
Experimental Cocktail ClubÂ
6 W. 24th St.
A dose of peaty whiskey makes Heinz taste like barbecue sauce. It’s great on the bar’s thick-cut fries.
Chama MamaÂ
Multiple locations
Adjika is an essential Georgian condiment; this version is made from damson plums that retain a tannic edge to cut through pork skewers.
Los Tacos No. 1Â
Multiple locations
Tomatillos are given a heavy char and left chunky, making for an extra-toasty, meaty salsa.Â
Cafe MassawaÂ
3153 Broadway
Floral with a peppery perfume and a potent heat that stands up to seared beef tibs with peppers and onion, and plays well with a side of this Eritrean café’s soft, sour injera.
Pecking HouseÂ
Multiple locations
A pleasant fruitiness is followed by a swift kick of real heat. Pour it over the fried chicken with a heavy hand and enjoy licking it off your fingers afterward.
Ravagh Persian GrillÂ
Multiple locations
Tart, herby sauce that comes with the house bread but is especially good with the crispy chickpea sambuseh.
Tonii’s Fresh Rice NoodleÂ
83 Bayard St.
Part of a quartet of sauces that comes with the rice rolls, and adds a simple-but-necessary depth to the shop’s supple noodles.
Go-Chin Khao Man GaiÂ
347 First Ave.
Fresh-minced ginger and garlic release extra heat on top of slivered chiles.
Karam
8519 Fourth Ave., Bay Ridge
As thick as mayonnaise and shockingly mild for a sauce of raw garlic. It’s as good on a pita chip as it is with one of Karam’s rotisserie chickens; get a big container.
El TenampaÂ
706 Fourth Ave., Greenwood
The restaurant is located in the back of a corner store, and the best option at its bar of fresh-made salsa is studded with avocado to soften the tart tomatillo.
Tender CrushÂ
529 Broome St.
Banana peppers are blended with their brine for extra pickled pep and roasted garlic to give it a smooth texture that’s ideal for waffle fries or chicken fingers.
Photographs by Suzanne Saroff
Jefe TacosÂ
DeKalb Market Hall, Downtown Brooklyn
Salty tomato salsa with immediate heat — you’ll want to take a break between bites to catch your breath.
BXL ZouteÂ
50 W. 22nd St.
It’s got the membrane-burning intensity of something imported from Dijon, but it’s prepared on-site. Spread it generously over the warm bitterballen.
Peppa’sÂ
multiple locations
A rich, thick sauce that stands up to rough-barked jerk chicken.
The Quarter Club
312 Grand St., Williamsburg
Inspired by Chinese hot mustard with a forceful blast of heat.
SukhÂ
723 Fulton St., Fort Greene
A citrusy mix of fish sauce, sugar, garlic, and Thai chile for soaking into the flakes of crisp, fried whole branzino.
Jubilee MarketplaceÂ
145 West St., Greenpoint
Smoky, sweet, sour, and sold in handy squeeze bottles so you can squirt it on a salad at home.
RakuÂ
Multiple locations
It lends ultraconcentrated umami to frisée-and-endive salad, despite the surprisingly light coating.
Tina’s Cuban CuisineÂ
Multiple locations
This is like the ultimate white sauce, with lots of vinegar tang and loads of black pepper: exactly right for a roast-pork sandwich.
Photographs by Suzanne Saroff
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