Life (well at least mine) is an exercise in being constantly surprised.
I’ve never been to Streatham. I was more out of my depth than usual. I didn’t choose this restaurant, it chose me. So with these many excuses in hand, I arrived at SW16 in more than my usual state of clueless bewilderment. Due to my current circumstances, I have had very little chance to sit down and eat food without interruption. Usually there is a disruption as a spoon has got somewhere it isn’t supposed to go (instigated by an underage eater). So on this meal out, expectation was high for the very reason that I would get to eat food that was eaten at the temperature it was supposed to be served at.
Sometimes food is better enjoyed with less, rather than more, company.
On walking in, the ambience was promising. Distressed furniture conveyed a laid-back atmosphere. It felt like somewhere to destress on a Friday night.
The bar taking the centre of the restaurant also helped to remind you that this was not home. It was somewhere where you could forget yourself. Although whether to forget the food, the company or the last week at work would depend on circumstance.
Grapefruit sour, seedlip garden, grapefruit juice, marmalade, egg white. So long has it been since I’ve been out at a nice place, I indulged with a fancy drink. Have to test-run that impressive bar. I’m glad I did as this was delightfully sour, with smoothness and fullness from the egg white.
Wild idol sparkling white, dealcoholized Mosel sparkling wine. Sweet, dry and chilled. Refreshing on this hot day.
Snacks and starters
Maldon oyster | yuzu, ponzu, pomegranate or jalpeno gazpacho, wild garlic oil. These were excellent. Rich and tasty oysters set off either with tart notes or spicy and umami fire.
While waiting for more food to come, we were plied with olives to sate our desires. A nice interlude before the next course.
Cured stone bass | yuzu & ponzu dressing, wild garlic emulsion, blackberries, biber. Probably the prettiest of the dishes we were to have this dinner, it was also the standout. Delightfully smooth and meaty fish set off with citric notes of the yuzu, ponzu and blackberries, umami of the garlic and a pinch of spice with the biber.
Beef carpaccio | mushroom ketchup, artichoke, capers, mustard, truffle mayo, parmesan. Some of my favourite ingredients here, with the mushroom ketchup reminding me of the life-changing mushroom icecream I had at Sketch. Although not as innovative as that, it was deeply pleasant and satisfying, full of bovine charm.
Mains
Swordfish carbonara | mussels, courgette, pecorino, black pepper. I am used to my carbonara being salty and strong tasting on account of porcine intervention. Missing that piggy element, it initially seemed a bit strange. However, the contrasting swordfish and mussels provided a more tempered taste than bacon, greeting me with smooth meaty finish.
Salt marsh lamb rack | braised chicory, dauphinoise potatoes, wild garlic, red wine jus. Delicately seasoned to allow the lamb-iness of the meat shine through, with each bite I was almost frolicking with the lambs in green fields myself. The layered dauphinoise potatoes served to round it all out providing a base to enjoy along with the chicory to contrast with the meat.
Miso glazed coley | pickled kohlrabi, celeriac fondant, celeriac puree, tahini, wild garlic, capers. A delicately flavoured fish set off with stronger (but still mild-mannered) vegetables and capers, this was decent although the lamb was more to my tastes.
Truffle polenta chips | miso mayo. To go along with the mains, deep fried, breaded and truffle-infused polenta chips. I could be happy with something pretending to be healthy even if it spoke in the same language to my deep-fried heart.
Desserts
Chocolate delice with miso caramel & hazelnut icecream. A fulsome chocolate tart set off on the side with delicious almond ice cream. The tart was nice but the layers of sponge inside seemed a bit too saturated and soft to me. More bounce inside would have made a good tart excellent.
Lemon curd with Italian meringue and raspberry. A more perfect sphere, I have not seen in a while. Delightfully sour without going too far. The meringues seemed a touch overpowered though.
Creme brulee, vanilla, blood orange gel, plum. We didn’t order this but it came as a little special surprise. It was a welcome addition as probably the best of the desserts. Brittle and hard on top, smooth and creamy inside, just the right amount of tartness on top.
Latte. Finishing the meal was a little goodbye handshake, to better remember them by.
There were a few surprises at the dinner. How yuzu oysters tasted, cured stone bass could sit deliciously with olive oil, swordfish carbonara could be a pleasant surprise and a creme brulee could leave you feeling immensely satisfied. This hip and trendy restaurant, in a sign of how progressive they are, have two unusual offerings for a restaurant. A supper club and being a wedding venue. So that means all the more reason to visit again. There is an old saying that if you are a jack of all trades – you will be a master of none. Although in this case, maybe I have to come back and try the supper club (one wife is enough), as sometimes it is good to be proved wrong.
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Score
A quiet eating 9/10.
We were invite to review. Estimated average price for 3 course 35 excluding drinks and service.Â
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SW16 Bar and Kitchen
5 Streatham High Road
London SW16 1EF
