I am writing this post from my new house, my new desk but with my old brain. So you will have to forgive me that my sense of humour hasn’t really changed, it is as bad as ever. This is Oma, which I think has taken the spot of Flor, that restaurant which was too easy to make the butt of many jokes, in particular where that food should go.
I came here with no expectations as this was picked by my better half (and I accordingly had no choice). It was a surprise but not in that toilet sense. A Greek restaurant just off the manic Borough market, it should win points just for being an escape from that.
Small stuff
Huumus, masabacha, hot crisps. Artfully arranged. The hot crisps in particular were an inspired choice. The deep taste of hummus and chickpeas with olive oil was smooth, fulsome and delightful.
Flatbread. The above was even better when it was dredged up with strips of this balloon of flatbread. As airy as it looked, it was bouncy and just slightly charred to offset its otherwise clean but moorish taste.
Pork souvlaki, oregano. I would usually see this in its chicken form and I think I know why now. Although it was not bad, the sweet taste of the honey and herbs was slightly overpowered by the natural taste of the pork. Might have been better with a more bland meat as a base.
Slow grilled chicken thighs. Nicely charred on the outside and set off with lemon on top these were juicy and charred. Being the annoying person that I am, I would say that if the cooking methods of the pork and the chicken were swapped things would have turned out better. Although, as I am constantly reminded, I am a cantankerous old man (now).
Flatbreads
Spicy pork sausage, spit-roasted pineapple, hot honey. The skill of the flatbread maker shone out here again. It seemed that whatever was put on top of this sublime bread, could only turn out well. The slightly fiery pork and honey gave a sweet bite and was a great combination with the special flatbread.
Lamb adana, spiced tomato, garlic yoghurt. Tomato lamb with yoghurt is something that I’ve had many times but not served like a pizza. Now I don’t know why others don’t do this as this was addictive with the interplay of umami, sweet, sour and earthy tastes.
Spanakopita, graviera, crispy potato. This vegetarian flatbread of spinach, feta and gravierra cheese with the inspired crispy potato on top was excellent. The crispy potato flakes on top of meatier dairy layers on top of healthy greens on top of this sublime flatbread created the stand-out dish of the day.
So as I left the restaurant I reflected that sometimes when you go out on a limb, it is worth it. However in other occasions, you might be better off using a limb which is more easily sacrificed in case you end up at the Fire Station. I would stress that that is a very occasional experience. Thankfully, that was not to be the case here, so perhaps I should call it Oma but instead, O wow.
A quiet eating 8.5/10.
Lunch (2 course equivalent) was GBP25 excluding drinks and service per person.
Oma
3 Bedale St,
London SE1 9AL
