Street food in Peru is diverse and packed full of flavour. Peruvians have mastered the art of being resourceful and versatile with their produce — you could eat sweet potato for three days in a row and not have it the same way twice. Peru grows an incredible 4,000 varieties of potato, so the humble spud takes centre stage in many snacks and sweet treats.
As the inventors of terraced farming, the Incas knew a thing or two about food. The Spanish had an influence too, particularly on Peru’s sweet treats. With that in mind, let’s launch into nearly a dozen tasty morsels found on your travels through the streets of Peru.
1. Cuy
The Incas introduced cuy (guinea pig), widely considered the original street food in Peru, five centuries ago. As the Incan capital, Cusco is the best place to try it. The guinea pig is usually served whole, as the head and limbs are edible and locals say they’re the best parts. If you’re buying cuy on the street, it often comes on a stick for easy eating. Cuy is usually deep fried, but it can also be roasted. And guess what? It tastes like chicken.
2. Anticucho
Peruvian cow hearts, aka anticuchos, are a street food that you’ll smell everywhere you go. Beef hearts are diced and marinated in spices, oil, and vinegar before grilling over coals and served on skewers – think barbecued steak kebabs but slightly chewier because they’re mainly muscle.
3. Arroz con leche
The Spanish introduced this sweet and creamy rice pudding to Latin America. Each region has its own variation, but in Peru, it’s generally made with evaporated milk, condensed milk, cinnamon, cloves, sugar, and lemon. If you’re a traveller with a big sweet tooth, look out for arroz zambito as this variation is made with raw sugar kicking the sweetness up a notch.
4. Picarones
Picarones were born in Lima’s street food stands during Spanish colonial rule. Much like pisco was developed to replace orujo brandy from Spain, picarones were made in place of buñuelos. But the difference is in the dough. While buñuelos, churros, and US-style donuts are made with flour, Peruvian picarones are made with sweet potato and squash that’s mashed and moulded into shape. They’re then deep fried and drizzled with chancaca, a super sweet syrup made with raw sugarcane. Picarones are often served alongside anticuchos.
5. Ceviche
An Incan invention, the raw seafood dish of ceviche comes from the Quechuan word siwichi, meaning fresh or tender fish. Traditionally, chunks of sea bass are used, but meat from shark and sole are popular in Lima cevicherias. The fish is served fresh from sea to plate after it’s marinated in lime or tangy orange juice and tossed with chili, salt, and pepper. Ceviche takes pride of place in Peru’s list of heritage dishes, and if you find yourself in Lima’s Barranco district or cruising along the coast to Paracas, ceviche is a must-try.
6. Chicha morada
If you’re feeling weary from a packed day of exploring, this sugary beverage perks you right up. Dating from pre-Columbian times, this purple drink is made with purple corn called ckolli. The kernels are boiled down with pineapple peelings, quince (a tart fruit, like a cross between an apple and a pear), cinnamon, and a few cloves, and it’s served cold.
7. Mazamorra morada
Morada means “purple” in Spanish, so you might have guessed that this Peruvian specialty is also made with ckolli. Literally translating to ‘purple porridge’, mazamorra morada is a dessert. The cooking process starts the same way as chicha morada. The ckolli gets hot and steamy with pineapple, quince, cinnamon, and cloves, but the smooth, jelly-like consistency is made by adding sweet potato flour, apple, and dried fruit.
8. Papa rellena
It’s no coincidence that papa rellena, which means ‘stuffed potato’ in Spanish, shares similarities with the French croquette potato. It’s thought that it came about in the late 19th century, around the time that French and Italian cuisines were influencing Spain. Each country has put its own stamp on either the filling or the preparation. In Peru, the potato-based dough is stuffed with chopped beef, onions, whole olives, hard-boiled eggs, cumin, and other spices. Once deep fried, papa rellenas are partnered with salsa criolla or aji sauce, a spicy sauce that contains aji peppers, oil, garlic, onion, and coriander.
9. Butifarra
Vietnam has banh mi, the US has the sub, and Peru has butifarra. It starts how all great sandwiches do, with a crusty white roll, traditionally a rosetta. Layers of fine-cut jamon del pais (ham infused with garlic and pepper) rest on a bed of curly lettuce topped with dollops of salsa criolla (sweet onion relish), radish, and freshly chopped chilis.
10. Rachi
Rachi is another Peruvian food typically found at anticucho stands, which makes sense because the meat comes from the same animal. Rachi is finely sliced cow belly that’s typically served with corn and sprinkled with various seasonings. It’s particularly popular in the Andes regions, but it can be found all over Peru.
11. Salchipapas
This popular fast-food dish is so naughty but so good. Thin slices of beef sausages are pan fried and mixed with French fries and coleslaw. Sometimes, they’re topped with a fried egg, cheese, or lettuce and tomato. (That makes it healthy, right?) However you take your salchipapas, top them off with a splodge of ketchup, mustard, aji sauce, or crema de aceituna (olive sauce) – or all of the above.
