I must have passed this small eatery countless times before. Tucked away off the main through fares of Covent Garden, this is an unapologetic French seafood restaurant serving the best British catch of the day. As life is short, I today was the day I took the plunge (seafood metaphors were apt given the cuisine on offer).
With neat tables in a cozy tiled dining room, it aims not to waste too much money on lavish decor or plush atmosphere but instead leave the food to be the main draw. The last point was what drew me here upon a colleague’s particularly effuse recitation of the plushness of what he had eaten. I hadn’t seen him so excited about a restaurant before so I thought this would also be a good test to use a barometer for future food chatter.
Potted shrimp croquettes. Looking fairly non-descript, these were to prove fried balls of delight. Minced shrimp mixture encased in crispy batter, these morish treats were light yet satisfying on the tongue.
Scottish scallop, devilled egg, trout roe. Delightfully seared scallop with egg and roe in a cream sauce. Carefully done so seared to just the right side of cooked, these maintained structural integrity without becoming bouncy. Diving in, the meaty and clean taste of the scallop contrasted excellently with the cream? sauce.
Poole Bay Palourde clams, garlic chardonnay. Set off with a light sauce and lemon, little parcels of joy which lifted up my day. The sauce was also so great that all remaining traces were mopped up as quickly as I guessed that sailors coming back from an extended voyage would move when docked at port.
Whole lemon sole, seaweed butter, samphire. This dish was the highlight of the meal, is succulent flesh lightly grilled in utter with healthy greens on top. The light treatment allowed the more subtle taste of the sole to shine through. Delicately smooth flaky fish flesh (triple alliteration should be rewarded) was a joy to behold and to eat.
Fries. Something decent and in a portion size enough for two. A great accompaniment especially when slightly salty. Not too oily and not too soft. A good specimen of what a chip should be like.
Regret is one of the most destructive feelings that you can have. Thinking of might bes and have gones is a sure fire way to sink into depression. Especially when applied to the lottery or stock market. Should have made that different choice, life would be so much better. In this case, I’m glad I jumped overboard to try something outside my comfort zone as if you open enough oysters, you are rewarded with a pearl.
A quiet eating 8.5/10.
Lunch (2 course equivalent) was GBP40 per person excluding drinks and service.
Parsons
39 Endell Street
London WC2H 9BA
